I consider any days ending in 00 or 50 to be milestones. So on day 150 of an attempted 365 days in a row of surfing, I feel accomplished.
Actually, I’m feeling slightly accomplished and mostly delirious, having had a short session this a.m. and then racing back to my house and throwing up all day from what I can only imagine is the flu. I must say though, it is really quite amazing how a dip in the cold Pacific can take your mind off just about anything. While I was surfing, I didn’t feel amazing, but I felt content and secure, like I was right where I was supposed to be. Even though it’s a struggle sometimes, it’s worth every second to get recharged with a little ocean therapy.
