by Richard Foss
For those who wrote asking why this column didn’t come out in early February as usual, it’s because not enough had happened to justify writing it. There’s more than enough now, so here goes! We’ll start with openings:
New And Loveable: You wouldn’t know it from outside, but Jeeb Thai Restaurant has opened in the former Siam I Am on PCH. (The old sign is still up.) Jeeb means “flirt” in Thai, and the theme is reflected in playful food descriptions on the menu. The food is central Thai style, slightly different from that of Bangkok or the North, and they emphasize their use of organic ingredients. Reservations recommended, as there are only four tables (215 S. PCH, Redondo)… Diagonally across Redondo, the new Mickey’s location is open at the corner of Artesia and Inglewood. They cleverly replicated the signage at the original location, so locals will instantly recognize the offshoot. The picnic tables on the patio have a view of the traffic on a busy corner instead of the beach, but the food tastes just the same as it does in Hermosa…
Grand Reopening… When a car struck the front of La Paz restaurant in El Segundo, they thought they’d be closed for two weeks. That was in September of last year, but the structural damage was so severe that repairing it took months. They reopened in late January with a renovated interior and the same food they’ve been serving since 1976. The only major change is that they’re serving birria, and I’ve heard it’s excellent (514 Center Street)… Another eatery in El Segundo is a first for the area, unless there is some other place offering pickleball, food, and libations under the same roof. The menu at California Smash isn’t fancy — burgers, salads, and flatbreads — but after a few rounds of whacking a ball around it might be just the thing. Non-players who like to watch are welcome too (815 N. Nash St., ES)…
Departed Dining: The Ragin’ Cajun closed at the beginning of March, bringing to an end an eatery that served food in four different locations under two different owners. It was a long and strange trip, and they will be missed by everyone who enjoyed Southern food in a hokey, rustic setting… The CalMex Cantina on the Redondo Pier also closed, and I doubt that anyone was surprised. They were owned by El Torito, which has a location next door that remains open… Also gone is the Redondo location of Peet’s Coffee, one of many closed as the historic chain is under new ownership. Peet’s has a place in coffee history because their Berkeley location that opened in 1966 started the gourmet coffee revolution in America. Among the people who were inspired to open a coffee shop were the three founders of Starbuck’s, and for the first years of that fledgling chain they bought all their beans from owner Aldred Peet. Both chains have been contracting lately due to competition from independents… There is also word that the Il Fornaio on Rosecrans is closing after 25 years, probably a casualty of the decline of corporate dining and catering. I’ve had many a good meal there, and will miss it.
The Rumor Mill: Readers have asked what is happening at Coyote Cantina, and I’d love to tell you but I don’t know. In January I heard from the owners that they had unexpected challenges in remodeling and hoped to be open by mid-February, but no news since then. I can confirm that another reopening is on track, though also held up by permits. The original Hot Dog on a Stick location on the Redondo Pier will reopen, though the family of founder Craig Reidt is no longer involved in the business. They are waiting for permits, so it’s hard to forecast how soon the corndogs and lemonade will be flowing again…
Meanwhile, in Rolling Hills: The previously sleepy lower end of the Promenade on the Peninsula Center has been getting lively, with three eateries opening in quick succession. Terra Mia Pizza opened about a month ago, followed by retro burger joint Dilly D’s and Level Up Bowl. Level Up is a bowling alley with a game room, bar, and small dining area, so it might help draw diners to their neighbors as well. Still no word about when the nearby bakery called Kickin’ Kolaches, which will specialize in the Texas version of Czech fruit-filled pastries, will be serving…
Event Alerts: After a few quiet months, events are heating up. Things start on Tuesday the 10th at Bluewater Grill with a great deal – salad and crabcake followed by bouillabaisse with a glass of Chardonnay for only $55 per person plus tax & tip, about $70. Reserve by clicking the “Book a Table” tab at bluewatergrill.com… The 14th is Pi Day, when pies of all sorts are celebrated, and some local bakeries will reportedly be offering specials that day. So will North Italia in El Segundo, which will debut a chicken al pastor pizza with pineapple, jalapeno salsa, avocado, and queso fresco. I’m not generally a fan of pineapple on pizza, but that does sound interesting… On March 19, Fogo de Chao will host a wine dinner with Napa powerhouse Caymus Vineyards. Roasted meats will be on the menu, of course, but so will items you don’t expect like panko-crusted sea bass. Four courses with wine pairings is $129 per person – reserve on OpenTable.com… On March 26, Primo Italia brings Greg Becker of BeckersChild Wines, located in the Santa Rita Hills area of Paso Robles. They haven’t published a menu yet, but wine experiences here are always a delight for those who enjoy Italian regional classics. Price is $165 per person including tax & tip, and I thank the management for listing the honest price rather than making me do the math. Reserve on OpenTable.com… The dinner at Fleming’s on March 27th is not about selling your soul to a florist, despite the name, “A Night of Flowers & Faust.” Flowers winery is noted for Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Faust for bold Cabernets. Both will be offered this evening along with lobster fennel ravioli, lamb chops with ratatouille, and other delights. Price is $149 plus tax & tip, about $175. Reserve on flemingssteakhouse.com or at 310-643-6911…
Odds And Ends: Those who enjoy cooking global food at home will be pleased to know that a Super King market is coming to the corner of Sepulveda Boulevard and Hawthorne. The chain’s other locations offer a large selection of Middle Eastern, Korean, and South Asian items, so I assume this one will too. No word yet on how soon it will open, but remodeling of the former Rite Aid is progressing… Also a bit out of our area but relevant for food fanatics, Zankou Chicken is open on Hawthorne Boulevard in Lawndale, so a shorter commute for those who enjoy their succulent roast chicken with lethal garlic sauce. Zankou is generally credited with starting the craze for this sauce, called toum in the original Lebanese and much-copied by others… Hermosa’s Yellow Jersey Patisserie has started serving breakfast burritos on Fridays, a notable change for a place that is best known for French-style pastries. Their garden is a lovely place for breakfast and coffee, and now you can get a croissant and a burrito fresh from the same kitchen…
For Food History Fans: I’ll be presenting a two-part program called “A Brief, Incomplete History of Dining in the South Bay” at the Redondo Library. This first segment covers the years 1888 to 1945 and will be presented this Saturday, March 7, at 2 p.m. The second covers 1945 to 1986, and will be presented two weeks later at the same time. It’s free, and if you would like to know more about local culinary history, this is the place to be. No reservations necessary…
Reason To Dine On Thursdays: Radici is offering a special deal for Thursdays only – three courses for only $40. Start with a bruschetta, choose penne vodka, cavatelli genovese, or eggplant parmesan, and finish with a panna cotta or cannoli. If there’s a better dining value any day of the week, I don’t know it…
And In Closing: If you know a restaurant opening I might’ve missed, a culinary event that should be covered, or just about anything related to food that I should know about, please send the information my way. I’m at richard@richardfoss.com. And as long as you’re on the internet, check out past restaurant reviews on our website at https://easyreadernews.com/restaurants/. ER
