Posts by Richard Foss
Halibut Corner in Redondo Beach [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Boardwalk Hideaway Fusion cooking has become such a part of the American mainstream that we don’t even hesitate at the idea of a Korean short rib burrito. We approach hyphenated restaurants in a cheerfully adventurous mood, interested to see how cuisines combine. Occasionally we are in for a surprise, and the restaurant actually serves faithful…
Read MoreBetter with time: in praise of Sloopy’s, a Manhattan Beach institution [RESTAURAUNT REVIEW]
Two decades after last visiting Sloopy’s, North Manhattan’s most inconspicuous institution, the food, service and atmosphere seemed better than ever. As I think back on the establishments that I used to hang out at when I was in high school, a parade of long closed restaurants fills my head – the Criterion, Lococo’s, Fook Gin,…
Read MoreA La Carte: new Indian in Hermosa, espresso in Manhattan, pho in Redondo Beach
How To Lose Friends… I was having a very late lunch with a friend at a popular Hermosa Beach spot, so it was no surprise that we were the only ones in the very large café. The two of us had some business to discuss, so we asked our server to turn down the music…
Read MoreOliver’s Café: a steakhouse with a Twist [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
I attended the Riverside Dickens Festival last week, a celebration of all things Victorian and of the literature of one prolific writer in particular. Two hundred years after his birth, Dickens continues to inspire filmmakers, academics, actors and reenactors, and at least one restaurateur – the one who opened Oliver’s Café in Redondo. Oliver’s Café…
Read MoreUnion Cattle gives way to Abigaile
A Hermosa Beach landmark will change character this week as Union Cattle Company restaurant closes for a makeover. Owner Jed Sanford is bringing celebrity chef Max DiMare from Northern California to create a menu using meats cured in-house and seasonal produce. Sanford says the new restaurant, to be named Abigaile, will take the history of…
Read MoreEleven from ‘11: Last year’s top eleven new South Bay restaurants
Restaurateurs in the South Bay are usually selling something more than food; they’re selling a vision of their eatery as a reflection of the Good Life. That means different things in different places, but usually involves a lively, exciting environment, dining very well while not having to dress up to match, and eating something that…
Read MoreAmerican Farmhouse [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
American Farmhouse Tavern integrates regional cooking with high style Until recently, unless you lived near Santa Maria you probably had no idea that this farm-oriented community on the road to San Francisco had its own cuisine. You’ve had it any time you ordered tri-tip at a steakhouse, since before Santa Marians started grilling this cut…
Read MoreCulinary kaleidoscope: more variety makes the South Bay a dining scene winner
Palmilla chef Christina Cipres is diplomatic when asked to compare what she serves with the fare provided by other restaurants on the Pier Plaza. “I’ve dined at a lot of the places in the pier area, including the taverns and pubs, and at all price points I’ve had very good food,” she insists. Nevertheless she…
Read MoreA hidden gem on the Redondo Beach pier [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Oriental Breeze, the most authentic Japanese restaurant almost nobody in the South Bay knows about Near the end of the Redondo Pier is a stand that sells funnel cakes, hot dogs, French fries, nachos, and ice cream, among other fast food. It has been open for many years and is reminiscent of places I’ve seen…
Read MorePalmilla: a cocina done right [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Greg Newman’s new venture delivers traditional Mexican cuisine with a refined flair I have become wary of restaurants that take high style to extremes; there are plenty of places I could mention where someone has spent cash and creativity on the décor, seemingly without ever considering what might be served inside their oh-so-hip spot after…
Read MoreOh La La Bistro [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Snails don’t have a huge amount of flavor – they’re usually an excuse to eat large quantities of garlic butter – and we were interested in seeing how they worked with the creamy béchamel Years ago, the most authentic French restaurant in the South Bay was located in an unassuming building on Pacific Coast Highway.…
Read MoreA La Carte: Palmilla, Best Bloody Mary, Bottle Inn rumors, deep dish pizza, tamale lessons, and a wine store discovery
First Look, Deluxe Edition… All cities in the South Bay have had high-profile restaurant openings this year, and Hermosa’s most anticipated was definitely Palmilla. People have been peering through the windows at the stunning architecture for months, intrigued by decor that is simultaneously minimalist and ornate. I visited the first week they were open and…
Read MoreOceana much more than meets the eye [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
I often find myself dining at places where much more creativity is given to marketing and promotion than to making sure that the kitchen is doing anything remotely interesting. Occasionally, I come across the complete opposite – a place with excellent and creative food, but where nobody has given any thought about how to explain…
Read MoreBar Comida offers intimate, personally crafted meals [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Usually, when you say you know how a chef thinks, you’re speaking metaphorically; you know what they do and can guess why they do it. It’s not like every customer at a restaurant can actually sit down with the chef at the beginning of a meal and discuss how to plan the flavors and courses…
Read MoreA La Carte
First Look, Deluxe Edition… All cities in the South Bay have had high-profile restaurant openings this year, and Hermosa’s most anticipated was definitely Palmilla. People have been peering through the windows at the stunning architecture for months, intrigued by decor that is simultaneously minimalist and ornate. I visited the first week they were open and…
Read MoreA La Carte: a batch of new restaurant openings and closings in Hermosa and Redondo Beach
Skulls Are Always In Season… As you drive up Highway 101 through Carpinteria, you pass a somewhat dilapidated red building covered with fake snow. It’s Mrs. Claus’s Kitchen, a restaurant that used to boast to tourists, “It’s Always Christmas Here.” That business went bankrupt because not that many people really enjoyed Christmas kitsch in mid-June.…
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