The Bottle Inn: Everything old is new again
Matthew Leon with the Bottle Inn’s rigatoni. Photo by Brad Jacobsen. The Bottle Inn opened in Hermosa in 1976 and while the menu changed over the years, the decor didn’t. The cozy space was from another time, the walls festooned with a display case of mini airline liquor bottles and distressed boards with paintings. Wooden chairs, some on the rickety side, flanked tables beneath hanging plants and iron chandeliers that looked like something out of a pirate’s tavern. The retro charm was undeniable, but it had started to look a bit tired. When a consortium headed by Hilary Condren bought the restaurant early this year it caused commotion among loyalists who feared the character and menu of their beloved hangout would change. Six months down the road regulars are relieved to see that while details are different the character has changed only modestly. A small wine bar welcomes guests, and on a recent evening it was actually in use rather than just being a waiting area. The main room has a sleeker, cleaner look with booths along one wall, tables the other. The paintings are still there but without the clutter and plants. The space is more elegant but not to the level that makes you…
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