James “Tiger” Makin seemed a little shy out of the water. But in the water he was always pushing the envelope. The bigger it got the more Tiger liked it. He’d take off deeper than anyone else behind the bowl, then race through the tube. In the early ‘60s Tiger, a 5-foot-9, 150 pound, freckle […]
by Mike Purpus Surfing may be an individual sport, but every surfer has a buddy out there with him in case you get hurt and, more importantly, to see your best rides. Conor Beatty and Austin Hall push each other to new limits on every wave. Conor, the 16-year-old 5-foot-10, 135 pound regular foot (left […]
Hypothermia charts show that “Loss of Dexterity,” followed by “Exhaustion, Incoherency and Unconsciousness” doesn’t set in until 10 to 15 minutes in 50 to 60 degree water.
So contest co-founder Jimmy Young decreed that this year’s heats would be 20 minutes.[Read More]
Tyler at Hammerland – Ouch
Photo by Brent Broza (BrozaPhoto.com). Click below on All Galleries for over 1,000 recent surf photos.
In the early 1960s I had two idols with two completely different personalities — Miki Dora and Duke Kahanamoku. Miki was surfing’s bad boy. He thrived on pissing everyone off. Duke, with his Aloha spirit, treated everyone with respect and grace. The Duke had a brand new Cadillac with a gold plated hood ornament of […]
Best shaper Pat Ryan, ET Surfboards Few shapers have been more outspoken in their criticism of imported, machine-made surfboards than ET Surfboard’s Pat Ryan. For the past decade, Ryan has argued with anyone who would listen that “pop-out” surfboards are too limited in their designs, too stiff, and most importantly, have no soul. Ryan began […]