DJing your dinner, Arabic Italian fusion, food & wine events, and more

A La Carte for 23 July 2021

Munching To Music: After more than a year of stagnant business, Decadence finally closed. The replacement is, in line with the trend of innovative eateries on Hermosa Avenue, a multi-sensory experience. Kasai Records offers a curated old school DJ listening experience that starts off smooth in the early evening and escalates the energy level as the night goes on. While you listen, you can enjoy yakitori specialties and Asian fusion plates paired with cocktails, wine, beer, and sake. I admire the concept and plan to go soon (1332 Hermosa Ave)…

Ancient Fusion Modernized: There was a quick turnaround in the former Bonaparte Bistro space. Malendrina Wine Bar is now serving Palestinian and Sicilian small plates along with the fruits of the vine. Palestinian and Sicilian might sound like a new idea, but it’s actually an ancient one – the island has traded with the Levant for thousands of years. The menu is short but includes some excellent dishes, including steak with a type of Sicilian pesto called ammogghiu. The wine list is expansive and fairly priced for the Pier Plaza location (36 Pier Ave)…

Meanwhile in Redondo: Since Martha’s in Redondo was originally announced as a collaboration with the Bottle Inn, I expected a focus on classic Italian food. That would be a questionable idea in an area with so many Italian restaurants, and it’s not what they did. The former Gabi James serves updated American favorites like smoked trout dip and short rib pot pie with some contemporary fusion dishes like street corn with prawns and Asian garlic ribs. Based on the crowd at a recent visit the place is catching on, which is good news in an area that has had declining traffic lately (1810 S. Catalina)… Elsewhere in town, the Harbor Bar & Bistro in Redondo’s Sonesta Hotel had a static menu for years, but has perked up lately. They’ve added Latin American favorites to the conventional items and have also improved the breakfast offerings. It’s a sign of life at a place that seemed to have little interest in attracting local customers, and improvement is always welcome…

Lone Star Outposts: There has been no place to get Tex-Mex food in the Beach Cities, but that will change when HomeState opens at The Pointe at the corner of Rosecrans and PCH. If you have been missing migas breakfasts and frito pie, help is on the way, but not any time soon – it looks like it will be a matter of months… If you crave another Texas specialty, the Tex-Czech fusion pastries called Kolaches, you will be thrilled to know that Kickin’ Kolaches is open in the Peninsula Center. In Czechia the sweet yeast dough is a platform for fruit or sweet cheese, and they offer those here, but also versions stuffed with brisket, hot links, pulled pork, and jalapenos. Think of it as dim sum buns as invented by Texans, or if that description bends your brain, just go try one (550 Deep Valley Drive, RHE)…

Openings And Closings: Unico Tokyo Pasta has opened in the former Chef Hannes in El Segundo, and the decision to locate there is a bit surprising. Their neighbors are the well-established Hana Haru and Kagura restaurants, so there are three Japanese eateries in a row. I would expect that everyone of Japanese ancestry in town could dine at the same time and have a few seats left over, though the population in this community has diversified in recent decades (411 Main Street)… Hermosa lost a long-time Japanese restaurant with the closing of Fusion Sushi on PCH. There were rumors that they were moving, but those seem to be in error – they’ve let their website lapse, which they would not do if they wanted to keep the brand identity… North Redondo’s Sacks in the City closed too, probably because they had a low-profile location and brought nothing unique to the area. The name was cute, but that’s all they had…

Event Alerts!:  Radici hosts a rare Sunday wine dinner on July 26. Four courses that include prawns and peaches in saffron sauce and pasta with lamb riblets will be offered with five wines – price is $110 plus tax and tip, about $140 – reserve on Open Table… The popular “Dine Around ARTesia” will be back on Wednesday, July 29 (north/east Artesia) and Thursday, August 20 (south/west Artesia). This event includes tastings of food at over 50 restaurants and art galleries. Those who want to learn about this often overlooked neighborhood will want to attend both – focus will be on the south/east side of the street in July, north/west side in August. $40 gets you the wristband for access – get them at nrbba.org… An event on July 29 is such a weird idea that I thought it was a joke at first. On that evening Porterhouse is hosting a Red Bull dinner – yes, the energy drink, which is reportedly the chef’s favorite pick-me-up. Six courses of Asian fusion (a nod to Red Bull’s roots in Thailand) will be paired with cocktails using that caffeinated elixir. Dinner paired with what are described as “wild cocktails” will set you back $225 plus tax & tip, about $203. Some people have trouble staying awake after wine dinners, but you may have trouble getting to sleep after this event. The reservation ling is HERE… Tin Roof Bistro hosts a rare event at their “TRB Open House,” which offers an evening of “tray-passed appetizers, wine pours, a bartender showdown, tequila tastings, beauty pop-ups, and a live DJ set,” It’s a partnership with neighbors the MB Wine Company, SusieCakes, and Hairy Little Things, and if you like a variety of experiences in one place, this will be hard to beat. Tickets are $100, reservations and details are HERE.  On August 11 the Bluewater Grill hosts their monthly seafood tasting, and the subject is swordfish. Start with chowder or salad before an entrée of blackened swordfish with vegetable accompaniments, plus two glasses of wine, for $55. Reserve by calling the restaurant at (310) 318-3474… On August 13 one of the great names in Central Coast wines will be featured at an event at Spumoni on Aviation. Gourmet Wine Getaways is well known for events that include wine education, and this evening will feature pours by Justin Vineyards along with three savory courses including Colorado lamb chops with roasted potatoes and spinach, plus dessert.  It’s $105 plus T&T, about $130, and reservations are a must – call (424) 304-2421… And if you enjoy comparing new and old world wines, you’ll want to be at Porterhouse in El Segundo on August 26. Four savory courses and dessert will be served, with each entree paired with short pours of both California and Italian wines. The price is relatively modest — $120 plus T&T, about $163 – reserve on Open Table… And it’s well in advance, but we do need to remind you about the Manhattan Beach Wine Food & Wine Festival, which will be at the Westdrift Hotel on Rosecrans this year. It’s worth deciding to attend now, because the early bird rate ends on August 6 – after that the price for Friday goes from $195 to $245, and Saturday escalates from $225 to $275. They haven’t announced the culinary lineup yet, but this event always brings in top chefs from a wide radius to create food to accompany over fifty beverage options. The website is at manhattanbeachfoodandwine.com, and if you don’t get around to reading this column until August 7, we’re sorry, we tried to warn you…

Another Culinary Poll: A reader with a taste for the classics just sent a query for which I have no good answer. Where do you go for excellent fresh liver with onions and bacon, a mid-century entree that is now unfashionable? It’s not a dish I seek out, but if you do, please let me know your favorites. He’s willing to travel a bit, so if it’s in a 10 mile radius, that’s great. The email is richard@richardfoss.com…

Odds And Ends: The new farmer’s market at Manhattan Village started small but is growing – it’s every Thursday from 2 to 7 p.m., and you may not have noticed it because it’s not visible from the street. It’s behind the parking structure in the parking lot between Anthropologie and the CVS. Parking will probably be easier than it is at the one downtown, and free too… Speaking of markets, the former International Seafood Market in Rancho Palos Verdes has been taken over by the owners of the venerable A-1 International Market in San Pedro, which is noted for their Italian and Croatian specialties (31224 Palos Verdes Drive West). I’ve shopped at the San Pedro location for years and like their frozen sfogliatelle, which I can’t get anywhere else…Hermosa’s Attagirl is now open for lunch daily, offering sandwiches and wraps with their housemade breads along with skewered plates and some starters. It’s a great way to dine with style midday… Attagirl also has a new special on Mondays called A.S.A.P., which in this case means “Any spritz, any pasta” – you get both for $28…  It almost seems like it’s not news to mention that Terranea has won the Wine Spectator Award because this is the 12th time they’ve done so. Those who love wine and food with an unbeatable view will not be surprised…  And the Chado Tea Room in Old Town Torrance makes the news because they are hosting Alice in Wonderland-themed tea parties. This includes a glass of raspberry Champagne, an assortment of themed sandwiches and scones, and of course teas selected for the purpose. You can get these any day of the week – bring a large white rabbit or a human companion, plus $69 per person (1303 El Prado)…

And In Closing: If you know a restaurant opening I might’ve missed, a culinary event that should be covered, or just about anything related to food that I should know about, please send the information my way. I’m at richard@richardfoss.com. And as long as you’re on the internet, check out past restaurant reviews on our website at https://easyreadernews.com/restaurants/. ER