Today I was not only struggling to find surf in the waveless South Bay, but I was also struggling to walk. Taking a big fall last night and really messing up my leg was definitely not what I intended, but being at the benefit show for Sky Nelson and seeing the Hermosa Beach community come together for someone who was such a beautiful soul made it all worth it.
This is the third time during my challenge that I have had to go to great mental and physical lengths just to stand up and ride a wave without my legs giving out from under me. People are forced to go through difficult things all the time, and pushing yourself to deal with and fully accept tough situations really puts into perspective that with a little discipline, so much is possible.
On the plus side, the weather was gorgeous, the water was glassy, and wildlife was abundant. Please Pray For Surf!
