When I woke up to a 6:30 a.m. surf check call from Kris Hall, local hotdogger and spectacular surfer, I must’ve sounded much older than 25, my voice raspy from the previous night’s festivities of incredible local South Bay art (and free beer!!). I was delighted to find that my night-before self had indulged in getting all of my surf gear ready last night, knowing that I might be moving a bit slow in the am.
I arrived at Knob Hill with my IV of coffee to find legends Ed Solt and accomplished former professional surfer Mike Purpus gazing out at the so-much-better-than-yesterday waves roll in, with light offshore winds and sunny skies making for a magical Thanksgiving morning. A fun surf session later and bobbing around with a great group of friends prompted ear-to-ear smiles and some good conversation, along with the occasional burst of laughter at super shredder Tucker O’Shia, who was imitating Santa Claus in his shockingly bright red wetsuit.
As I sit writing this and baking in the sun on the Hermosa Pier, intermittently giving thanks, watching friends surf the glassy shorepound, and witnessing pelicans dive into the sea for a meal, I think about my journey so far and how happy I am to have found my passion for the ocean again. There aren’t enough words in the English language or enough paper in all the books to describe how grateful I am to have so many wonderful and supportive friends and family in my life, and how thankful I am to have the opportunity to have therapy sessions with the ocean every single day. Since starting this mission I’ve both connected and reconnected with some incredible individuals from all different walks of life, and as sappy as it sounds, I love you all and you keep me stoked.
Happy Thanksgiving to the South Bay and beyond, and thanks for the good surf.
