Endless Session, Day 134: Ebb and flow
Morgan the previous day soaking in some ocean therapy. Photo by www.BumpSetSurf.com
I took a few tumbles on my skateboard last night, but as soon as I ran into the sea with my longboard early this morning, I felt alive, my clumsy land-self melting away and mermaid Morgan taking over. The exhilarating feeling of hopping into the ocean and pushing over the incoming waves caused a big “Yew!” to escape from my mouth.
Rise N Shine. Photo
Redondo High surf coach and my friend Frank Paine finally came back from a long vacation in Idaho, and a little “surf family” reunion paddle out with he and Boris in Hermosa was only fitting. After Paine blew the whistle to signal to the rippers that it was time to head to school, him, Boris, and I paddled out on a warm sunny day and bobbed around catching up on life in the playful surf. I spent a little time on the nose, feeling like I was flying, while Paine was sailing down the line and carving all over the glistening faces; Boris also catching a few long rides that had him grinning ear to ear. After a perfect session and a hot water “bucket” shower graciously provided by the coach, Frank lit up Brother’s Burritos with his long missed presence, the countertop finally feeling complete.
Frank and Boris at the Burrito counter. Photo
This morning’s water sensations are hard to describe with only words. Being able to move with the ocean in every sense, and not against it, can be the most pure feeling someone can experience, and cruising into and over waves becomes a dance. The ebb and flow of ocean therapy keeps me balanced, and my daily doses keep getting better with every session.