Endless Session, Day 141: Surf adventure
A few days prior on day 136. Photo by Noah Patterson
Every day of surf is an adventure, whether local or not. However, I think day 141 of consecutive days surfing surely takes the adventure cake.
Dr. Luis Abrishamian pulled up to my house bright and early and we set off to pick up our coworker Teddy (aka Ted-Shred) from Providence Little Co of Mary Hospital, who was just getting off a 12 hour night shift. The three of us sped down the 405 in my sandy surfmobile, blasting reggae and eventually landing in Newport Beach, all of us racing to put our wetsuits on to paddle out in the pumping surf. Ted was taking off backwards on a longboard and doing perfect pop-shove-its, then pumping down the line and racing to the nose, while Luis was all smiles on every takeoff.
The LCM surf club on day 142, all a little delirious from lack of sleep. Photo by April Singleton
We unfortunately had to take Dr. A back to do some doctoring, but Teddy and I decided (even with him having not slept for 24 hours ) that we were going to venture north to Malibu, the land of rights — heaven for me as a regular foot longboarder. We moved quickly along the coast, and when we finally pulled up to our first destination, I thought that Ted might be trying to kill me. I looked at the wave, and although it didn’t have much size it was breaking in about 1 foot of water almost on shore. Hollow heavy barrels would be an understatement. I had never surfed a wave like that, but I geared up and tried my best to act like I wasn’t nervous. In the water I bobbed around, stalling for a while before Teddy gave me some helpful pointers, and I finally mustered up the courage to catch these crazy, heavy little waves, getting an in-and-out barrel on a few and coming out feeling like I had just won the lotto. The set of the day came in, and I witnessed TedShred get the deepest, longest, most intense barrel ride I have ever seen in person.
After I managed to survive that unexpectedly fun session, we headed to Sunset to finish off the day with some playful head high waves. I paddled out for about 30 minutes and my body, which has started falling apart from the ridiculous amount of surfing I’ve been doing the past week, told me that it was time to go in (especially when my shoulders started popping with every paddle). Ted and I soon after realized that we were having so much fun all day that we literally forgot to eat. I don’t know how he survived — 12 hour night shift, no food, and three intense surf sessions.
Sunset at Sunsets. Photo by Ted-Shred
Finished off the day with the most beautiful sunset at Sunsets. Epic surf adventure? You bet.