Today, after a long night of not feeling well, I woke up later than I have in months. I thought I wasn’t reading my clock right – delirious and groggy, I figured out that it was in fact 9 a.m., and I slowly got my things together and headed for the beach, a bit drained but nevertheless excited to surf. Some jet fuel (coffee) at Brothers Burritos and walking out on the beach to see amazing waves coming in got me pumped, and as soon as my head dunked under the first cold wave, my tired, achy body felt reinvigorated.
I was only going to stay out to catch my three wave quota, but the great waves and smiley company — including Ted Lytle, Mike Purpus, Joey Lombardo, and Jordan Weintraub — kept me out for much longer than I had planned. It was completely worth it — a few waves I caught had me up on the nose for what seemed like forever, feeling like I was flying, while Mike Purpus was carving in front of me and Teddy Shreddy was styling with huge cutbacks on my new singlefin shortboard.
A break from the big swell and some relaxing, fun little waves was a perfect late start to the sunny South Bay day.
