I didn’t even check the South Bay surf cams this morning, for I was headed North for a “Board Meeting” with surf coach Mike Siordia. I got to our mystery spot meeting place a bit earlier than our agreed 10 am start and watched from my car as the sun sparkled over the perfect rights rolling through, utterly mesmerized.
A very long thirsty Thursday the previous night had me slightly dragging, but hitting the cold water (still somewhat foul from the heavy rain) got my head straight and I started to feel the embracing flow of the ocean take hold. I hadn’t been to today’s destination in a very long time, and was kicking myself for missing out for so long on waves like today’s. I sailed down the line on a few of the longest rides I’ve had in months, and then unfortunately not even an hour into my session took a fall while noseriding and came down hard on my longboard on a very uncomfortable area of my body…. I let the waves roll me into shore and decided it would be best to call it quits for the day. Siordia continued to rip and I watched from the beach for a bit, looking forward to planning a day of no injuries and an all day surf sesh at the incredible mystospot.
