Everytime I clean my surfmobile, the whirlwind of the next day seems to put it right back in the same state it was before. Surf wax is peppered all over the roof, and the inside, apart from various surf toys, wetsuits, and piles of of ocean-drenched clothing — it looks like I carry the beach with me, sand blanketing the floor. I swear my car doesn’t speak for my cleanliness at home, but I’ve learned to love the messiness of the surfmobile – it has a certain surf grunge authenticity to it.
Weekend-esque water crowds prevailed at Sapphire in Redondo beach today. After a few circles of traversing the streets looking for parking, Frank Paine, assistant surf coach the Redondo Surf team, and I each found a spot for our beachy whips and made our walk to the sand through a slight drizzle, expecting not many souls out in the cold air and mellow waves.
The lineup was full, but with friendly folk and lots of smiles. We all shared waves, and after about an hour of fun rides Frank and I split ways and went back to life, meditation for the day complete.
