My body is tired.
Work hard, play hard has been my motto for six months, but some days I feel my weight triple, and simple movement becomes quite difficult.
Last night’s birthday festivities, being out late for events and shows since Wednesday, and still getting up before dawn to surf caught up with me today, and I was certainly paying for it. I rolled out of bed and felt heavy, and packed up my surf gear slower than a turtle’s pace. My friend Shane and I went to grab some motivation-in-a-cup (coffee), and puttered down to Redondo Beach in hope of getting some decent rides. We stopped at a few different places, and unfortunately even with the help of our coffees, the dismal waves had us feeling even slower. Back to Hermosa we went, sleepy loggers continuing along on the wavehunt.
Macking 6-foot closeouts and a high school surf contest were what we found where we landed. Grabbing our longboards, we went for strenuous paddle through the forceful energy of the water and bobbed on the sidelines with the rest of the rippers that were warming up for their heats. The sets were rolling in slowly and heaving violently at the last second, and it was making things a bit difficult for us and our 9’6 boards. After a short time, we settled into the task and each caught a few short rides.
Being a longboarder in the South Bay has its challenges. Growing up surfing here, I played on every type of board until my passion went completely into logs. I love the feeling, dance, and flow. Some days are hard to manage a big board, with fast breaking closeouts and walled up lines, but persevering through the heavy shorebreak makes you fully appreciate the days when we get clean, shapely waves.
