Moving sucks… especially when all you want to do is surf.
However, I can’t even remotely complain, because my new digs, although certainly coming at a price, are right by the beach and have an insane view of my home break. After the heavy morning fog cleared up a bit and I got a few more things into my new crib (with the help of my shaper Jose Barahona – thank you!!), Topaz in Redondo Beach was calling my name, so I jammed a few miles south and quickly ran down those long flights of stairs to the beach for some afternoon ocean therapy.
It doesn’t matter how much time I spend surfing. Being in the ocean every day, even if the conditions are bumpy and wild – it makes me centered. Â It makes things clear that weren’t before, and helps me understand what’s truly important. Â I was surrounded by surfers today, but felt like I was with naught but myself and the ocean in the lineup. In between waves, I emptied my thoughts, realizing what was important (being stressed from moving) was to just breathe.
