
My head, still dazed and pounding from the wave-beating I put myself through the past few days, felt instantly relieved when talented shutterbug Paul Roustan of Bump Set Surf and I sat atop the Esplanade, mesmerized by the peaceful breakers rolling in at the avenues in Redondo.
A few breaths and we left our lookout point in the dust. Down those endless stairs, escaping from the concrete jungle our toes finally sank in the soft grains of sand, and we were home.
Jose Barahona, my guru, friend, and the ultimate sled shaper, beached himself while we played around in the waves, and just as soon as the session began, toes again hit the sand, this time from the water, and back up those endless stairs we went — goosebumps of cold water put to rest by the sun.
