Coming back from Ventura, the land of perfect right pointbreaks and a surfers paradise, you would think that surfing a mediocre beach break would make you cry salty tears of pounding closeout sadness…
As bumpy, fast and strangely shaped as it was at the Hermosa pier this morning, I can’t think of taking any time in the ocean, especially where I grew up and learned to surf, for granted. Riding waves and bobbing in the sea is my favorite thing to do in the whole world, and when I’m at my local spot, no matter how good, bad, or ugly, I’m on cloud nine.
Paul Roustan, owner of Bump Set Surf, had his camera ready for action on the beach while a small lot of us powered through a few sets and zipped down, racing against the whitewater.
Hermosa held me close for a while, and the only thing that could get me out of the water was the rumbles in my stomach of a much wanted post surf breakfast. Bye for now and I’ll be back home later
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