At 8 a.m., I sat under the palapa in complete wonder at Old Mans. A summer day with a winter crowd. The barely fiberglass-caressed peaks were sweeping through gently, deep blue reflections bouncing everywhere from the rays of the sun. A black bird was singing glorious chants, filling the near empty lot with sweet vibes. I could barely break myeyes away from the bird and the waves to get my board, if it wasn’t for my surf meeting with Sabrina Pearcy, coalition member of the DLSA, Doheny Longboard Surfing Association.
Sabrina and I non-stop chatted from the dirt lot to the water, and rolling in the kind waves, we discussed getting me back in the coalition, which is made up of 20 California surf clubs that compete against each other and span from San Diego to Santa Cruz. Already on the heat sheets for upcoming Gathering of the Tribes in the beginning of April, I’ll have some insight as to how my surfing has improved in the past 8 months, and if I can indeed roll with the big dogs now. Hopefully I’ll make the Doheny club proud, and until then, its surf, train, surf, train, eat, surf, train.
