Surf?
There’s no other text question I’d rather wake up to. Unless of course someone asked if I’d like a gallon of my favorite ice cream delivered to my doorstep.
I greeted my surf coach Mike Siordia at El Porto bearing gifts of coffee and bananas, and was excited to run into Ken Marlis, who I bump into in the water every couple months. Ken would come into the Becker Surfboards shop regularly when I worked there in my younger surfer girl days, and we’d talk shop, boards, life, and surf. Always nice to see the always-jolly Ken, and even nicer to surf with him.
A group of us took over a shallow peak near Rosecrans and buzzed back and forth in the waist high breakers, sun and water making the mood so playful and summer-esque. Siordia sat next to me and went over many pointers, and we got to talking about how to not force what you want to do on the wave, and more understand the wave and what it is asking of you at any particular moment. Don’t noseride when it doesn’t make sense to, stay in the pocket, look where you are turning… and most of all don’t be unnecessary Just flow.
I couldn’t have asked for better advice.
The next 100 days, the last of my surf challenge, will be devoted to not only being as stoked as humanly possible to surf every day, but to pure rhythm and flow, and having a deeper relationship with the ever-humbling and always changing ocean.
