The short, simple, cut and dry version of day 267 of straight surfing.
Paddle out through a million sets (took forever, almost hit pier pilings)
Surf overhead draining low tide waves (on a longboard… what were you thinking Morgan)
Get smashed into sand (this part hurt)
Lose board (swimming is awesome but not after swallowing a ton of salt water)
Almost throw up a little (ew)
Throw in towel (actually I didn’t really throw it, I just grabbed it to dry off)
Would I take the beating all over again? You bet (maybe this time sans saltwater in the lungs)
