I nearly catapulted out of bed.
My toe was finally healing, my bruised rib was feeling better, the hole in my heel closed up, my head wasn’t pounding from a hangover, and the hole in my knee…. well…. the hole in my knee was still pretty damn gross. I threw on the nearest bikini and paddled into glassy Cardon perfection, the sun coming up over the hill behind the resort and the calm of the soft morning light embellishing the beauty that was central Mexico.
For the first time since I got here, I was truly in the zone, immersed in longboard heaven. Along with the couples of Cardon and a few surprisingly friendly locals, I sailed down overhead lines, carving back and forth, noseriding, making the most of the fluffy and forgiving waves, and only eating it down one steep face. One two hour session turned into another after a refuel of coffee, being almost as perfect as the earlier outing.
I almost was on a plane home yesterday, and every second of headaches, hiccups, and speedbumps during this trip that led up to this morning vanished into the salt. I was purely and completely full of stoke.
I was ready to leave. Now I feel like my trip has just begun.
