Endless Session, Day 297: One of Two Ways
Surfing a tiny bit hungover can go one of two ways. One — you might feel a little looser, loss of IQ point emptying your head a bit and helping you to not overthink or be overly critical of your session. And on some occasions I may have actually surfed better (or maybe the delirious state has me thinking I’m surfing better). Two — you feel gravity to the umpteenth degree and turning, or even standing, is like moving mountains.
Number Two settled in forcefully this morning.
I thought I was surfing, but all I kept seeing was splashes of water pitch up from the constant tumbles I was taking, and even though the cloudy sky looked like beautiful milky marble, I was looking at it from the from the flat of my stinging back a little more than I wanted. A few longboarders, included the talented local Rock Berjonneau (who normally sports a shorty) gave some assurance that I was doing a little better than I thought, but I laughed at them and told them I was damn near drowning.
The sopping mess of Morgan showered and fueled up with hot bean water (coffee) at the Burrito Factory (Brothers Burritos), and called the unsuccessful day a success, and shook off the previous nights housewarming party, planning on a restful day of cleanup and Gatorade for the South Bay Boardriders contest tomorrow.