Finding bliss in South Bay summer surf
Summertime in the South Bay offers dismal surf. With the natural breakwalls of Palos Verdes and Catalina shading our southern-most corner pocket, south swells on the right angle tease and might just flirt with Manhattan. Waves are generated by local wind swells that would stoke a Floridian surfer, make a Gulf surfer count his blessings and a Great Lakes surfer cry for joy.
What are your surfing options? Being the dude riding an anorexic, depleted piece of foam, struggling in a horse-jockey stance, hippity-hopping down the line, setting up for a mediocre six-inch tail flip so that you can tell the boys who posted up in the parking lot or at Spyder how “bitchin” you are, “cause you stomped it out?
Let’s face it, foam is not something to be afraid of. More flotation equals less force being applied to sub par surf and cutting the need for a surfer to bounce like a pogo while praying for a non existent wall to attack.
Do what your grandparents did and grab a longboard. There’s a reason South Bay old boys from the ‘60s claim Hermosa was way better then. Don’t forget, they were riding nine foot-six noseriders, prancing the curls with happy feet making two feet beach-break bliss.
A longer board equals more glide. The flatter the rocker, the better. Make your longboard lay straight like an iron board. But beware, longboarding is a responsibility and a leashless activity (even leash plugs should be frowned upon). Also, leave the, “If I ride a bigger board, I’ll catch more waves,” philosophy to upright surf jocks who like canoeing Hiawatha-style.
Yeah “Go Fish,” is a pretty standard and tired call that’s been en Vogue for most of the early millennium. Twin fins, relax rocker, fat swallow tail does the body good. Most shapers now make a so-called retro fish that’s far from the original Steve Lis design of the early ‘70s. In fact the term “retro” really doesn’t apply to a fish and its many variants. It’s contemporary, if not more contemporary then the thruster.
Mid lengths, eggs, hulls, fun shapes and all the above describe a board that ideally is stable, paddles well, and easy ride. Although not really user friendly, the Liddle inspired hulls has been an underground phenomena with Alex Kopp’s race of “Gothic Dolphins.” They ride these late ‘60s knifey, flat and flexible eggs in all different paces.
While excelling in a point break like environment, these surf blades tend to go bunk in beach break.
Nothing is better than grabbing or “borrowing” your kids, neighbors kids, nephews, nieces, beginner shape 7-foot- 6and slopping through a hot summer’s day at the pier in one foot shore pound. Please be responsible for dings and do not put it off on the kids, especially after a 12-ver of keystone or a liquid lunch at the Mermaid.
On the issue of borrowing, next time you see one of those hot rippers who plaster sponsor stickers over all areas of fiberglass for self reinsurance, ask to ride their board. Slater, Reynolds and other pros have been riding five foot and below children’s toys, beefing them up a bit and drawing these crazy lines. Stubby, wide, thick equipment slips perfectly in a pocket (where you get all the speed), allowing easy access to speed, speed to do some crazy rodeo, mute, stale, judo chop aerial.
We are living in the post post modern surf era, so why not get weird. How about a 10-foot fish, a longboard shape that’s 5-foot-2, or maybe a paipo board with twin fins you can stand up on? Yeah this scene’s been going on in Orange County for awhile, but it doesn’t mean you can’t do it first in the South Bay and claim it as your own? Most South Bay board companies do it anyway, right?
Talk to your local shaper. They’ll help you out. Keep it crisp, clean, and casual. ER