Frascati [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

There is a right size for every restaurant, but not all restaurants are the right size. The vast acreage that works for a chain coffee shop or Chinese eatery is inappropriate for a classic French restaurant. This is as much a calculation of logistics as anything else – even an army of servers can’t give personal service in an auditorium-like setting. When Frascati was in Redondo Beach, they served Italian food that was excellent, but not always in the style it deserved. The restaurant was very large, and when full to capacity, seemed to overwhelm the kitchen. Delays would mount, appetizers were liable to arrive after main courses and servers hurried from table to table trying to assure diners that their food would come soon. The place was beautiful, the menu ambitious, but the experience could be erratic. Last year Frascati moved to smaller premises in Rolling Hills Estates, an inconspicuous location in the Avenues shopping center. The new place seats about 70 people, less than half the size of the previous restaurant, but it’s a better fit. The feel is authentically Italian, the service assured, and while a few changes could be made in the food, overall we were satisfied. The…

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