It’s fitting that that so many local Italian restaurants have big windows and sunny patios – after all, that peninsula is famous for sun, for old master landscapes drenched in light. Even at its most formal this is a cuisine with flavors that are not far from the garden and the sea, so it makes sense to dine in one with a view of the other. (To make it clear, that’s dining in the garden, not the ocean, because even with scuba gear it’s not comfortable the other way.)
Avenue Italy has done a particularly good job of creating an Italian setting without set dressing of the kind that mimics a Florentine villa or similar fantasy environment. The big, airy room with ocean and patio views has tapestry chairs and a copy of a Roman fresco, plus windows into the kitchen, a reminder of the reason we’ve entered this space in the first place. A bar with a wall of wine bottles completes the sense of a space that is modern, but anchored in tradition.
On our first visit for brunch we let ourselves be guided by our server, who we had recognized from high-end restaurants of decades gone by. Seeing him there was a good sign; we could be sure any recommendations were from someone who knew his business. Sure enough, the vegetable soup, beet salad, and seafood risotto were classic ideas perfectly executed, each subtly spiced and elegantly served. The meal was good enough for a spot on my list of the best restaurants to open in 2013, and we resolved to return after a few months to make sure that they were maintaining their standards.
The second visit was on a blustery midweek evening, and as we arrived somewhat late the restaurant was only about half full. A very good singer was performing a mix of opera and Italian and American pop, her accompanist tinkling along tastefully on the piano, and the music made a pleasant backdrop for the meal.
The menu here is heavy on seafood, which is fitting – some seafood dishes found in ancient Roman cookbooks are not unlike items that are popular today. We started with one that is relatively modern, fried calamari. (Squid was a staple of the ancient Roman diet, but deep-frying is probably no earlier than the 8th Century.) The squid was very light and crisp with a delicately salty breading, but the dipping sauce was a surprise – spicy arrabiatta sauce was supplied rather than something milder. We found it best with a dip of the spicy sauce and a squeeze of lemon, and enjoyed it along with bites of their excellent homemade focaccia.
We had a different server than the previous visit and invited him to suggest wines – he offered glasses of a Bianca Chardonnay from Tuscany and a Morgan Sauvignon Blanc. The Morgan meshed with the spiciness of the sauce very well, but the Bianca was made in the California style, heavy and oaky, and didn’t fare as well. It was better with the minestrone, which had a hearty vegetarian stock with carrots, onions, zucchini and celery. Our server offered a dash of Parmesan, which added another dimension of flavor to the bay leaf-scented stock. We finished our appetizer while listening to the singer performing a surprising version of Scarborough Fair – odd music for an Italian restaurant, but beautifully done.
For main courses we had opted for mushroom ravioli in a marsala and dried tomato sauce and salmon Portofino with tomato, artichoke, olives, white wine, and lemon. I was concerned that the ravioli might be overly sweet as marsala wine has a high sugar content, but in this case it was used judiciously to give sweetness of depth to the cream sauce. There was a little more sun-dried tomato than I would’ve thought perfect, but just a little.
The fish with Kalamata olives, artichoke heart, and lemon was very good, though there was a cumulative saltiness to the sauce. I alternated the fish with bites of the sides, which were roasted potatoes and squash with red bell pepper. The wine pairings our server suggested were a Trebbiano from Tuscany with the ravioli, a Rotta Zinfandel with the fish. This Trebbiano was solid and conventional, but the Rotta was a big fruity spicy wine that was a bit overpowering. It didn’t not work, but I think here might have been better choices from this cellar.
We finished with tiramisu that had a slightly avant-garde presentation with the shadow of a fork in chocolate powder. This was odd because it was served with spoons, but it was pretty. It had the right balance of cream, coffee, and chocolate, but bottom layer of ladyfingers was a little over soaked with wine.
Meal prices here are not unreasonable for the area; starters run from $12 to $16, mains $21 to $29, and the wine price has a wide range of prices and is well-chosen. The experience is peaceful, both food and service reflecting the enduring values o Italian dining, and even if I dined elsewhere I’d stop by just for a glass of wine and to hear that singer again.
Avenue Italy is at 32143 Palos Verdes Drive West in Rancho Palos Verdes, at the northwest end of the parking lot near Admiral Risty’s. Open Tue-Sat 11 AM – 10 PM, Su 10 AM – 10 PM. Patio dining, full bar, wheelchair access good, vegetarian items. Menu at avenueitaly.com, phone 310-377-3940.
