Search Results: richard foss

Simply South American at Encanto

By Richard Foss / December 20, 2022

by Richard Foss South American cuisines have been coming out of the shadows in LA during the last few years, with the South Bay no exception. A decade ago, we had two Brazilian restaurants – now there are nine. (Since we have had a simultaneous upswing in teachers of Brazilian style jiujitsu, those restaurants are…

Read More

How do you say ‘Retro’ in Spanish?*

By Richard Foss / December 16, 2022

I took my sister-in-law for dinner at Las Brisas, and she did a double-take after we were seated. “This place looks exactly the same as it did when I was here for my baby shower,” she exclaimed. That baby is 31 years old now, but very little has changed at Las Brisas except the prices…

Read More

Japanese American? American Japanese?

By Richard Foss / December 10, 2022

When the dark and moisture-heavy clouds of winter gather, soup is on my mind. Often I make it at home, using homemade stocks cooked down from bones and vegetable ends. But since dining out is one of the great joys of my life, I go out for it too. I don’t like driving in the…

Read More

Letters to the Editor 11-24-22

By Kevin Cody / November 22, 2022

False branding Dear ER: Redondo Beach is anything but anti-growth. In fact, at 11,000 residents per square mile, we are one of the most densely populated cities on the California coast (“LA Times article releases Mayor Brand emails,” ER November 17, 2022). Long Beach is only 9,000 residents per square-mile, as one comparison. We have…

Read More

Artesia heats up, Hermosa gets more Mexican, Cafe Pierre Brigadoon, wine events, and more

By Richard Foss / November 17, 2022

Never Thought I’d Type This: For the first time since I started writing these columns, the Artesia corridor is the center of local dining news. I have been expecting some energy in this area, since it has high traffic, more available parking, and lower rents than the beach city downtowns, but not for so many…

Read More

El Tarasco goes a upscale, but not too much

By Richard Foss / November 11, 2022

When I was a kid growing up in Manhattan Beach, I frequented two Mexican restaurants: the Red Onion when my parents were paying, and El Tarasco when it was on my dime. Since our family didn’t have a lot of money, I ate at El Tarasco a lot. My friends and I would ride our…

Read More

Strange Siblings [restaurant review]

By Richard Foss / November 5, 2022

When chain restaurants began to flourish in the 1930s, they targeted people who were driving through strange towns and didn’t know a place that served anything they liked. If visitors saw a sign they recognized, a White Castle, A&W, Steak and Shake, or one of the other popular franchises of the day, they could pull…

Read More

Potential realized in Redondo

By Richard Foss / October 28, 2022

One of the more dubious honors presented by the NBA is the annual “Most Improved Player” award. It has been noted that the easy way to win something like this is to start out terribly, and then raise your performance to average or slightly above. I have never given an award like this, but if…

Read More

Enchantment and celebrity chickens in Hermosa, a Mexican classic departs and more dining news

By Richard Foss / October 19, 2022

The nights are getting cool, but the local dining scene is hot as ever, with lots of openings to report and more on the way. First, though, news about a few places of note that we have lost. The Market Report: Moon’s Market offered friendly service in a cluttered, slightly shabby environment, and had a…

Read More

Slay’s Hermosa foray

By Richard Foss / October 10, 2022

One of the defining moments in California cuisine was when Alice Waters of Chez Panisse surprised her customers with an unorthodox dessert: a plate with nothing on it but a peach. No sauce, no garnish, just a piece of fruit. In the1980s, when wild creativity was fetishized, it was daring to insist that something natural…

Read More

The restaurant without a gimmick

By Richard Foss / September 29, 2022

Manhattan Beach has several restaurants that are architectural showpieces, among them the otherworldly Esperanza, sleek Zinc at Shade, the retro grandeur of The Arthur J, and hyper-modern Love & Salt. Places that can’t afford the architects and decorators festoon their places with surf memorabilia, photos they purchased from the Historical Society, or kitsch to convey…

Read More

Why things become classics at the Bottle Inn[restaurant review]

By Richard Foss / September 20, 2022

If you grew up in this area, you may not remember your first visit to the Bottle Inn. You were probably too young to drive, or to legally sample anything from the wine list, a kid dressed in nice clothes going out to dinner on mom, and dad’s anniversary, or a significant birthday. In the…

Read More

After a brain hemorrhage nearly killed him, South Bay chef and musician Albert Kim reckons with recovery

By Ryan McDonald / September 3, 2022

by Ryan McDonald Early on in Albert Kim’s 61-day hospitalization at Providence Little Company of Mary Medical Center, a member of his medical team examined Kim’s hands, and asked if he was a “working man.” Had Kim been conscious at the time, he might have smirked at the question. Kim was in a deep coma…

Read More

What America tastes like

By Richard Foss / September 1, 2022

I have expat friends who live in New Zealand and stay with me when they visit family here. Their first actions on arrival follow a pattern. On the way from the airport, even before dropping their luggage, we stop for Mexican food, and within the next two days we go out for barbecue. These are…

Read More

Intermittently brilliant in a Torrance mini-mall

By Richard Foss / August 30, 2022

The most expensive steaks in the world come from Japan, which is ironic for those who know history. For over a thousand years the Japanese ate no beef at all. In that Buddhist country, anyone who consumed as much as a mouthful was required to do penance for 150 days. When the modernizing Emperor Meiji…

Read More

Ragin Cajun, Simplified and simply fine

By Richard Foss / August 21, 2022

“It’s time for me to review the Ragin Cajun again,” I mused to my wife as we drove by on the way to someplace else. “You just want an excuse to order their fried chicken,” she shot back. “How much have they changed since you last reviewed them?” She wasn’t entirely wrong about me wanting…

Read More