In praise of everyday Chinese [restaurant review]

Top Wok’s Orange Peel Chicken. Photo by Brad Jacobsen (CivicCouch.com)

Top Wok’s Orange Peel Chicken. Photo by Brad Jacobsen (CivicCouch.com)

One of the rewards of writing in my own neighborhood is the chance to interact with my readers, a luxury unavailable to those who write for national markets. The most common complaint I get is that I don’t write enough about the places that “real people” go, favoring places that offer new and unusual experiences. It’s nice to know about those who are pushing the boundaries, but have I considered that some people might be looking for particularly good versions of casual cooking?

After considering this I have to say they’re right. The signs announcing new restaurants are shiny objects that get my attention, and sometimes I actually forget that I haven’t featured some longtime local hangout in years, or possibly ever. I have resolved that the next time I hear myself saying, “It’s just that place you go when you want a decent pizza,” I should probably start writing as soon as I’ve wiped the pepperoni grease off of my fingers.

And for another example, let us consider Chinese food, specifically that made by Top Wok in Redondo. I had missed this place in the shopping center at Beryl and Prospect for some time, and when I did notice it I thought they were to-go only. When I first stopped in it was to get take out for someone who wasn’t feeling well, and I was pleased to see a small dining area. It’s decorated with whimsical touches like an incongruously formal chandelier in the center of the ceiling, which lends an artistic touch. Nobody was dining there on my first visit and I’ve never seen it even half full, but as I like Chinese food fresh from the wok I appreciate a pleasant space to enjoy it.

The menu doesn’t feature any particular region and has all the popular favorites like chow mein, sweet and sour pork, and variations on egg foo young. It’s not entirely old school, they have scallion pancakes and a few items from inland provinces, but the bedrock of the menu is based on classics.

I haven’t worked my way through the whole menu, but the items I have tried have been solid. The hot and sour soup was a little short on vegetables but had a flavorful broth and gentle kick from white pepper and vinegar. If you’re one of those people who likes the first bite to start your lips burning and then escalate from there, you’re in the wrong place, but it is fine for anybody else.

On one visit we sampled stuffed lotus leaves, an item I usually see at dim sum places. The large leaf is stuffed with a mix of rice, pork, and vegetables, then steamed so that the aromatic leaf perfumes what’s inside. It was a highlight of dining here and something I’d recommend.  

The main items I have tried were mu shu pork, hot braised shrimp, shrimp “double pan fried” noodles, eggplant in garlic sauce, and Singapore-style mai fun noodles. All were a bit on the mild side compared to the same dishes made in Monterey Park or similar Chinese neighborhoods, but in most cases the flavors were in balance. The braised shrimp and eggplant were my favorites, and we were also agreeably surprised by the double pan fried noodles. A word of advice: get there when you’re dining in, not to go, because the texture of the noodles that have been very briefly fried in hot oil just before serving is the reason to get this dish. They’re very good when done right, and on the day we had them the kitchen nailed it.

My other word of advice concerns portions, which are generous. Most items are priced at under twelve bucks and you might expect them to skimp, so you’ll probably over-order the first time you come here. You can go with it and keep it for tomorrow (and those Singapore noodles were a darn good breakfast when I had them the next day, a touch of curry to wake up my tongue).

So that’s the scoop on Top Wok – the people behind the counter were friendly, the cooking is solid without being mind-blowing, and the bill is low. It’s not the place you’re likely to take out of towners to show off, but it might just become the place you go when you want a decent bowl of fried noodles.

Top Wok is at 1252 Beryl Street in Redondo. Open 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. and 4 p.m. – 9:30 p.m. Mon. and Wed.-Thur., until 10 p.m. Fri., and noon-3 p.m. and 4 p.m. – 9:30 p.m. Sat.-Sun. Parking lot, wheelchair access OK, no alcohol. Delivery available, menu at redondobeachtopwok.com, phone 310-318-3072. ER

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