Talia’s, Manhattan Beach
By Richard Foss Note: Written in 2007 Continuity and consistency are virtues worth bragging about, and the rare restaurant that can boast of being under the same ownership for decades has something to crow about. Odds are good that you’re keeping people happy and earning return visits, which are the most sincere sign of customer satisfaction. The owners of Talia’s obviously understand this, and at every turn they remind customers that despite the 15-month closure for remodeling, the place has been under the same ownership and chef since it opened in 1977. This is true, but misleading – in my opinion, the current incarnation of the restaurant is vastly superior to the old one. The room used to be fussily old fashioned, the cooking reliably good but unexceptional. Both are livelier and more interesting now; the management has kept all the old virtues and added considerable zip. The restaurant has always been small, and the addition of a ten-seat bar where two tables used to be hasn’t changed the number of people that can be seated, but has increased the coziness factor. We dropped in on a Saturday night a little late for our reservation and were seated at the bar, where we enjoyed…
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