The dinner of a thousand details: A feast in Paris illuminates fine dining expectations in California

by Richard FossWhen I reminisce about memorable dining experiences at French restaurants, some people recoil from the idea. An image develops in their minds of stifling formality, complex etiquette, and a procession of mysterious, complex dishes. They fear they might not be sophisticated enough to understand the aesthetic, much less relax and enjoy it. In vain do I try to explain that at most modern  French restaurants the only neckties visible are worn by servers or managers, the welcome i