Salt & Pearl, an unpolished pearl

While dining at the recently opened Riviera Village restaurant Salt & Pearl, I enjoyed a conversation with a longtime local, and we reminisced about neighborhood seafood restaurants long gone. We both had fond memories of The Windjammer, a cavernous relic more famous for their collection of nautical bric-a-brac than the creativity of their cuisine. They offered little more than chowder and fried clams, followed by a variety of fish, grilled or fried. With the exception of sand dabs and abalo