When Whole Foods opened in El Segundo I referred to it as the Disneyland of food, a place that attracted gawkers to see how beautiful vegetables could be. Part of the attraction was the array of quick service dining options, which included a wine bar, barbecue stand, and an Asian quick serve counter.
Not all were successful, and though the Asian food stall is still stir-frying, the other two have been replaced. Each new entrant is surprising in a different way. One is a gastropub, the other is a new venture by Kogi, the food truck that turned Korean fusion tacos into a nationwide craze. The store that emphasized healthy choices and branded everything they could with their own logo has welcomed another distinctive brand in one location and established a beer and burger bar in the other. So how do these work in the environment of a Whole Foods?
Shoppers will be tempted by the Kogi counter first, because it’s in a high traffic area by the lavishly stocked cheese and olive section. The open kitchen and adjacent dining area have a stark industrial feel, marking this as a place to have your meal and move on.
Ordering is via a complex self-serve system in which you use a touchscreen to generate an order slip that you take to the counter where you pay. It’s worth going through the rigmarole because they’re serving the epitome of modern fast food: it’s spicy, has a variety of textures and flavors, and is relatively healthy. The Kogi empire was built on tacos, your choice of meats topped with a mix of lettuce and cabbage with sweet, spicy, and vinegary gochujang sauce. It is an inspired combination and I enjoyed both the short rib and carnitas versions, but I like their blackjack quesadilla even better. This is a mix of spicy pork, caramelized onions, and jack and cheddar cheeses fried in a flour tortilla and topped with salsa verde that includes citrus, jalapeno, and roasted garlic. It’s a sublime mess to eat, and immensely satisfying.
The only item that didn’t impress me was their hot wings, which were oddly dull. Though they had been deep-fried the skin wasn’t crisp, and they lacked complexity. They were tossed with a decent but unexceptional hot sauce, but the creative flair that suffused the rest of the items here was lacking.
If you like soft drinks or water you can eat your Kogi items at the adjacent tables, but if you prefer beer or wine you can take your food to the gastropub and order drinks there. The Second is right by the exit, a comfortable space with an array of beers and wine. Their menu will come as a surprise to those who have stereotyped ideas about Whole Foods. There is no parade of health food here – the fries are fried, not baked, and they serve burgers, fish and chips, or pork belly over French toast. The burger is grass-fed beef in a housemade bun, the fish sustainably caught cod, so there is still an expression of principle here. It’s pub food made with the best ingredients, and for those who prefer vegetarian food there’s a plant protein burger alongside that cow-based version. There is also a sushi section, so some of your expectations are right on the money.
So how does this wholesome gastropub idea work? Generally well, though there are still kinks to work out. The cauliflower nachos, tempura cauliflower topped with jalapenos, pico de gallo, and an avocado-lime crema, were crisp and delicious when they were first served, but went soggy very fast. If they had been cut smaller they would have cooked through completely and stayed crisp. I’d have this again but ask them to spend a little more quality time with the veggie chopper.
I also tried an autumn squash and grilled apple salad with baby kale, burrata cheese, and pickled cranberries. The flavors were well balanced and the portion so generous that it was a substantial appetizer for three people.
I tried three entrées, the maple pork belly, a special sandwich of brisket and grilled cheese, and the “Beast Burger” that contains no actual beast. It’s a vegan patty topped with lettuce, red onion, tomato, aioli, and vegan cheese. The person who ordered this tried it in the spirit of experimentation, and was surprised at how good it was. I’d rank it as one of the best vegan sandwiches I’ve had, and I have had many.
Unfortunately the fries accompanying it were over-salted, as were the housemade chips that came with the brisket and cheese sandwich. The sandwich was excellent, meat tender and slightly smoky and mixed with caramelized onions, and I hope it makes more appearances.
The maple-glazed pork belly had a presentation that straddled expectations about meals. Pork belly is the same cut as bacon and putting it over French toast with syrup might seem like eating breakfast for dinner. The sprigs of micro-greens that topped it and Brussel sprouts side put it in different territory. I don’t believe I’ve ever alternated Brussel sprouts with maple and meaty flavors before, but it was success.
The final surprise at The Second is the bill, which was lower than expected. The burgers, sandwiches, even that plate of pork belly, are twelve bucks each, the huge fresh squash and burrata salad was nine. It’s a remarkable deal for freshly made meals from top quality ingredients. It’s a new expression of Whole Foods style, and a welcome one.
Kogi and The Second are inside Whole Foods in Plaza El Segundo, 760 S. Sepulveda, ES. Kogi open 7 a.m. – 10 p.m., The Second open 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., parking lot, wheelchair access good. No online menus. Phone 310-333-1900. ER
