An old idea, but new to you [restaurant review]
One of the more enjoyable food fads of the previous decade was putting cross-cultural things in tacos, such as pastrami with sauerkraut, fried chicken with mashed potatoes, and of course Korean bulgogi with kimchi. Hermosa Beach was host to an establishment that received lasting but unfavorable publicity for foie gras tacos, among other concoctions, and a few local places still carry on with this creative silliness. Otherwise, tacos locally are what they’ve always been, usually grilled meat, onions, salsa, and maybe some cheese. Until recently, that is, when a new outpost of an established restaurant introduced a regional style hitherto unavailable in the South Bay, namely that of Mexico City. While most of the ingredients are the same pork, beef, and seafood found in the Northern Mexican style that is prevalent here, the method of preparation is different. Northerners usually grill or fry their meats, while further south they are stewed or braised, traditionally in clay pots. High-heat grilling is fuel-intensive, fine in countryside or village areas where fuel is plentiful, but expensive when it has to be transported long distances. Mexico City has been urban since it was still…
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