Café Pierre: la fin d’une époque in Manhattan Beach [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Guy Gabriele, who will soon turn the operation of his beloved Café Pierre to his daughter. Photo I first visited Café Pierre thirty-five years ago, just after they had opened as a modest creperie with a friendly fellow named Guy explaining the unfamiliar dishes. The place was an anomaly in our not-very-cosmopolitan town then, an authentic bit of Europe, and adventurous diners streamed in. As the years went by it expanded and went upscale, and more complex items appeared on the menu. Eventually the crepes that had been the foundation of the restaurant disappeared, and the menu went through flirtations with Latin and Italian cuisine before reverting to a strong focus on Southern French flavors. Through it all, Guy Gabriele remained at his post, welcoming old friends and coaxing diners to try new things. The cuisine at Café Pierre now may be new to many Americans, but it is very old – Café Pierre offers rustic items from Provence that are seldom seen even on Parisian menus. We started a recent meal with three of these specialties – brandade, a dip made from salt cod, potato and garlic, merguez sausages with chickpea fritters, and a beet and cheese salad. Codfish have never lived in…
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