Endless Session, Day 172: Cleaner water and weekend bombs
Jose Barahona on a nice left at the Hermosa Beach pier this morning. Photo By Morgan Sliff The brunt of the swell has passed, and for day 172 of my attempt to surf a year straight, the Hermosa pier was calling, with still sizeable bombs dropping on the on the beach at around 8 in the morning. The cloudy sky was lit up by the talent in the water, including Kris Hall, Tucker O’Shia, and Sarah Foley, all local rippers who were taming the incoming sets with their stylish maneuvers. The high tide was making the waves a bit slow, and I was having trouble paddling into the sets even on my 9’6. I found my surf family — Frank Paine, Jose Barahona, and Boris Vishnevsky — a little ways south of the pier and crowds, and I joined them in the struggle to catch the large, rolling breakers. The tide finally started dropping and after 30 minutes I finally caught my first ride, dropping almost vertically down what was might have been a 7-foot face. I barely made the section and paddled back out, heart beating fast, bewildered that I hadn’t gone over the falls and eaten shit, and adrenaline pounding through my veins. The water felt clean and inviting today after the past few days of surfing in…
Read this story on easyreadernews.com