Surf spots bring about memories, and each day spent on the sea makes yet another. Those good waves or crazy experiences make them stick, and when I surf Topaz in Redondo beach, it brings back some of the most….. vivid. The gift of a new wetsuit Christmas day in 2011 prompted a post-presents surf there, whereby on a knee high low-tide wave my ex, an incredibly skilled waterman, broke his collarbone in three places, and a bone trying to force it’s way out of his skin prompted an immediate surgery and three days spent recovering at Providence Little Company of Mary Hospital. I clumsily tripped over a metal plate walking down to the beach there, and looked down to find myself standing in a literal pool of blood, huge gash in my toe and nail barely hanging on. Needless to say that proved to be a difficult next few weeks of standing up on my surfboard. Past experiences aside, having an incredible day bobbing in the ocean makes everything else disappear — worries, responsibilities, and time — and today at Topaz the sun was shining bright as ever, the baby seals were out to play, and I was surrounded by friends and nothing but grins and good vibes.
Jeff Strauss and Sarah Foley lit up the water with their stoke, and the waves that were less than perfect seemed to be made better by their presence. Jeff took off on a few bombs, and Sarah joined in the festivities soon after, gliding down walls on her blue longboard. The big board crew stuck together for a while, then departed, only to find ourselves together again at Brother’s Burritos enjoying some of the most satisfying food you can get around town, especially after a tiring surf session. The cleansing Pacific and hearty meal sure amped our spirits — it’s amazing what a sweat, good food, and great company can do for you, because I felt like a million bucks all day.
With the morning of surf and hang ending and more memories filed away for safekeeping, I faded into my desk at work with a smile, thinking of water, waves, and times of Topaz.
