Endless Session, Day 192: Memories
Topaz. Photo Surf spots bring about memories, and each day spent on the sea makes yet another. Those good waves or crazy experiences make them stick, and when I surf Topaz in Redondo beach, it brings back some of the most….. vivid. The gift of a new wetsuit Christmas day in 2011 prompted a post-presents surf there, whereby on a knee high low-tide wave my ex, an incredibly skilled waterman, broke his collarbone in three places, and a bone trying to force it’s way out of his skin prompted an immediate surgery and three days spent recovering at Providence Little Company of Mary Hospital. I clumsily tripped over a metal plate walking down to the beach there, and looked down to find myself standing in a literal pool of blood, huge gash in my toe and nail barely hanging on. Needless to say that proved to be a difficult next few weeks of standing up on my surfboard. Past experiences aside, having an incredible day bobbing in the ocean makes everything else disappear — worries, responsibilities, and time — and today at Topaz the sun was shining bright as ever, the baby seals were out to play, and I was surrounded by friends and nothing but grins and good vibes. Sarah Foley stylin on her…
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