Endless Session, Day 218: Getting Sucked out to Sea and Enjoying the Emptiness
Why keep driving?! Photo A couple days off in the middle of the week with uncrowded northern lineups, solid swell, and glistening glassy right pointbreaks. I could nearly melt into myself right now. Driving along the coast solo on my way to Rincon, bumping a quite eclectic mix of Bob Marley, Bad Religion, and Shakira, I kept rubbing my eyes to make sure what I thought was a never ending perfect wave mirage along the entire coast was in fact real. Rincon was nearly in my reach, but I kept seeing untouched beauties littered along the stretch of Pacific Coast Highway. So I did the the most logical thing I could think of…. I stopped. Not even having the faintest clue of where I was and before I even had a plan or knew what I was doing, I was covered in jet black stretchy neoprene, my big blue board in hand balanced sideways on my hip, and my eyes were scanning for a way to traverse across the seawall that was separating the road from the waves. The tide was high and the swell was building by the minute; when I parked on the side of the road, the whitewater was hitting the wall with such force that it was shooting up over the barrier and soaking the dirt on the side of the road. I…
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