Endless Session, Day 221: No Whip, No Options

Another day, and another wave in Hermosa back on day 142. Photo by Grant Ibrahim Today was hard. Carless (again – another $1,500 of fixes, and no wheels ’til Monday) and horribly sick. Apart from being under the weather, having little energy and feeling like a brick is lodged in my forehead, not having a car is a downside in the world of surf hunting. I mustered up the energy and walked to the sand with big blue, no whip leaving no options except the walking distance of some heavy Hermosa surf — making a delirious Morgan a little more wide-eyed than normal. Into the sea I went, and thankfully out of the sea I came, ready to drift off back under the sheets, not even washing off the salt.

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