Endless Session, Day 281: What Surfing Will Do To You
Why I’m so tired. Photo Dead would be a cheery euphemism for how I was feeling by the afternoon of my 281st straight day of surfing. The pristine, buttery left in front of Cardon Resort is world class. Like a softer, backwards Malibu, the near perfect wave has drawn surf celebs such as Gerry Lopez and Chris Malloy, who describe it as “a little slice of heaven.” It’s hard to even leave your fancy air conditioned room at the beauty that is Cardon Resort, which accepts guests for an all inclusive week starting Saturday’ — but when you wake up and look beyond and see reeling swells less than 100 yards out from your balcony, you can’t help but put a skip in your step and almost bypass the hot and ready coffee in the gourmet kitchen. So after a deep Central American slumber, I skipped out the door around 6:30 a.m. and grabbed a sled that I normally would never, ever, ever ride. Not only was it a shortboard — it was a funky looking 5’9 Tomo board. The paddle at Cardon is not for the faint hearted. At first glance it doesn’t seem like much tribulation, but the inside current is like a liquid conveyor belt, working against your most likely already sore upper body. Especially on a tiny…
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