Endless session, Day 283: Learning Lefts
Actually doing a turn on day 283. My handy duct tape cast and I raced down to the beach, finally feeling rested after a few tiring, hot days at Cardon Surf Resort in central Mexico. The rest of the Cardon gang was gearing up along with me – the resort accepts up to 16 guests maximum at a time, and besides a local here and there, the perfect left point is pretty much exclusive; untouched by other hotels or surf companies. Many people book the same week a year in advance, and the entire group here now has been coming down together for five straight years, some of them not having known each other before their first year down as separate entities. Day 283. There must be something about sharing waves together in such an isolated place. I can imagine the bonds formed while catching some of the best and longest lefts of your life certainly resonates, especially when you go back to reality. Ken and the group of firefighters from around the South Bay started making their way into the lineup, all of them keen on trading off on some long rides. Today the weather was a little on the glum side, but that didn’t make the 75 degree water feel any bit cooler. The slowly building waves were showing…
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