Endless Session, Day 293: Heaven on Surf
Day 293. Photo by www.BumpSetSurf.com Heaven is not in the clouds for me. It’s in the sea. Breaking through the traffic-laden girth of LA, Paul Roustan and I emerged into a less traversed scenic road to search for a little slice of heaven about an hour north of the South Bay, where there was supposedly some swell that was going to be hitting this morning (according to the oh so helpful Surfline). As we arrived our hopes shouldn’t have been too high. Paul and I have this funny thing that happens. We get together every once in a while to chase waves out of the South Bay on a road trip, and every time we get somewhere the surf is the exact opposite of the report, substandard, or its crazy windy. Surfline said 2-3, and we laughed when we swerved into the lot, peered around the wall and beheld the 2-3 inch surf. The plus side? It was 2 -3 inches of perfection, the sun was cutting through the clouds, and the popular break wasn’t canvassed with others on small wave patrol. So I tiptoed over a few slippery rocks, and made my way into lake Malibu. I really, really, REALLY like my new surfboard. Photo by www.BumpSetSurf.com Paddling out on day 3 of riding my new board, the bold icy water…
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