Endless Session, Day 316: Never Turn Your Back On the Ocean
Maybe the smallest wave that came through on Day 316. Photo by David Olive David Olive and I sat under Tower 12 at Doheny yesterday, watching as the water filled with bodies. A board shot away from its master, and like a fiberglass rocket with a dangerously sharp fin, propelled towards two waders on the inside who were facing the shore and not the powerful incoming walls. I ran toward them, ignoring the sharp rocks under my feet, screaming as loud as I could “TURN AROUND, TURN AROUND!!” and they spun just in time to duck down deep, narrowly missing a concussion or much worse. As I sank back in my beach chair, David shook his head and muttered, “You never, ever turn your back on the ocean.” Today the sets were bigger, the water was liquid silk, and it had enough size for the outer reef to intermittently be breaking, which makes it possible to get an extra long ride on the reform to the inside. After a few hours between boneyards and second spot, I paddled 100 yards into the sea, past everyone to that oddly-breaking reef, where every 10 minutes a wave was heaving up. I sat by myself, legs disappearing under the murky water. And I waited. And waited. 10 minutes went by. Then 20. Then…
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