Mama Terano: ‘Miraculously good’ Italian cooking [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Dinner at Mama Terano. Photo The photo of Mama Terano is a bit faded, and diners might wonder why the owner of a popular restaurant didn’t have a better one to hang on the wall. The clue is on the frame – the elderly Italian woman smiled for the camera in 1960, and didn’t live to see the restaurant with her name on the awning. Chef-owner Robert Bell named the place in the honor of his grandmother, who awakened his love of good cooking. That naming decision tells you more about this restaurant than anything else in Bell’s career – if you are looking for the eclectic food he pioneered at Chez Melange, look elsewhere. This restaurant recreates the flavors of Brooklyn Italian kitchens, and Bell and partner Steve Riley do a remarkable job of it. That authenticity spikes on Sunday, when the restaurant offers a five-course family supper for the bargain price of twenty dollars. We visited on Sunday for our first experience and immediately nominated it as the best gourmet bargain in the South Bay. On that night the menu was antipasto salad, spaghetti with meatballs, salad with artichokes, roasted red peppers, and arugula, braised short ribs with mashed potatoes, and a cinnamon-walnut…
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