More to life than breakfast
By Richard Foss
In a break with the past, Martha’s Redondo serves after sundown
When a successful restaurant opens a new location, there is a tried-and-true formula: whatever you were doing that made you successful, replicate it to the last detail. Is the interior of the old location full of kitschy bric-a-brac? Send a truck to a thrift shop where they sell 50’s decor items by the pound. Are the tables scratched, with names carved into them? Give some teenagers knives, screwdrivers, and caffeine. Make everything the same except the view out the window.
Cloning the exterior environment of Martha’s in Hermosa would be difficult – the views of the beach and strolling passers-by from the broad brick patio are one of a kind. The interior decor is less of a challenge, as the monochrome walls are festooned with branded merchandise like tee shirts and hats. The new location in Redondo substitutes Riviera Village street views for sand and surf, and does a pretty good job or recreating the mood of the original. The breakfast and lunch menu has been replicated, so from dawn until 3 PM, the mood is the same.
The pattern breaks at 5 PM, when the only activity at Martha’s in Hermosa is seagulls and pigeons scavenging for any breadcrumbs and bits of French fry that might be under a table. That’s when the Redondo location is opening for dinner, and they’re serving something very different than might be expected. The consortium of owners that includes Managing Parther Jeff Richards and Hilary Condren decided to offer a menu that is in tune with modern tastes, American favorites like steaks and roast chicken alongside more multicultural offerings. It’s almost like a shift from one century to another occurs every afternoon.
I’ve visited for dinner twice and have tried starters of smoked trout dip and what is described as charred prawn street corn. I quibble with that description because calling it street corn leads you to expect the Mexican version with cotija, lime, and crema. The main feature of the item served here is the polenta with corn kernels, two different versions of corn flavor and texture, accented with paprika, green onion, and a chorizo chimichurri that has a hint of cumin. It’s a different texture and flavor profile and the Mexican item, and rather more interesting. The four medium prawns that topped the polenta were grilled but not charred, which made me wonder whether the recipe had changed but the description hadn’t. That’s a thing that happens often in operations in the startup phase, and since they opened up in the last days of June, they may still be making adjustments.
The street corn with prawns is served over polenta and sprinkled with parmesan and paprika.
The same process may be ongoing with the smoked fish dip, as it was made with trout on our first visit, arctic char on the second. The fish was lightly smoked so the natural flavor wasn’t obscured, then run briefly through a food processor so it wasn’t completely pureed- there were still some lumps of seafood for texture. It was topped with a ring of fresh tomato puree and a dollop of crushed avocado, plus a caper gremolata and chopped chives that balanced the fish with herbal and pickled notes. The portion was substantial for two people, but we ate all of it because it was just that good. Another element of the preparation that may be in flux is what you’re given to dip into it – the menu lists housemade chips, but on the night we ordered it we received seeded crackers, and the server said bread was available if you preferred that.
The smoked fish appetizer is a layered mix of flavors thanks to toppings of avocado, tomato coulis, capers, and green onions.
Martha’s Redondo is unlike the original location in having an impressive wine and cocktail list, not too surprising because few people probably would order a mai tai at breakfast. (Some Hermosa partiers might order one for breakfast, but I don’t think this restaurant is trying to attract that crowd.) The drinks are well made – the “French Blonde” of Nolet gin, Lillet blanc, grapefruit, and elderflower had a delicate blend of floral elements thanks to the lavender that is a characteristic of French gins. They make the classics well too – my wife and I ordered a Woodford old fashioned alongside a version made with Four Rosed that has a splash of Aperol and shake of orange bitters. I liked the Woodford better, while my wife preferred the Aperol-laced concoction.
We tried four dinner entrees – their steak frites, bone-in pork chop, chicken parmesan, and an Atlantic cod sandwich. The steak frites was an 8 ounce hanger steak that had a glaze of rosemary-scented au jus and a topping of roasted pearl onions, alongside crisp fries that had been dusted with herbs. The meat was the medium rare that I requested and nicely tender, the French bistro classic well-executed. The pork chop wasn’t quite as described, again because they’ve been tinkering with the menu. The description mentioned a hot honey glaze, and I braced myself for a hit of spice, but it was instead a gentle heat and sweetness. The chef came by our table while making the rounds and I asked about this, and he said that diners had been saying it was too hot. I presume that if you like it that way, you can tell your server – I was actually happy with it as it was, a good piece of meat subtly accented. The roasted Korean yam that came with it was a nice surprise, not heavil;y starchy and with a rich sweet flavor accented by the crisped shallot and garlic topping. A bit of green vegetable on the plate would have added visual appeal and balance, and if I order this again I may get a side of asparagus or broccolini.
The chicken parmesan was a classic with a distinctive character – the sauce had a fresh tomato flavor rather than the version in which the cooked-down red wine in the sauce dominates. The pasta was on the side rather than under the meat, and not in the same sauce, but in one where the garlic butter and herbs were prominent. It was successful and more interesting than the one-note version that is typical. As for the cod sandwich, it was just what you want when you order one, the fish crisp outside and moist within, some coleslaw that had a little extra bite from shaved fennel and dill. There was housemade tartar sauce on the side, but my wife hardly touched it because she liked it as it was. I would have deployed it more generously because I like good tartar sauce, but in a healthy marriage sometimes you agree to disagree.
We tried only one dessert, a mini lemon meringue pie that was plenty for two. It was a bit bigger than a hockey puck and not overly sweet, with fresh lemon zest that elevated the flavor and aroma. One of these days we’ll try another dessert, but it will be hard to not just get this again.
Those dinners at Martha’s Redondo were proof that chef Johnny DeVivo is taking his own path in the evenings, but we had to come back for breakfast a few days later to see how they execute the items that made this name famous. Sure enough, the corn scramble with crisp hashed browns was as good as ever, and the pancakes were light and fluffy. It’s everything that I like about Martha’s in Hermosa but the beach view, with the advantage of easier parking. The change between night and say is remarkable, but whether the sun is high or the skies are as dark as it gets in this area, Martha’s is a good bet.
Martha’s Redondo is at 1810 S. Catalina Avenue in Redondo. Open 7 a.m. – 3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. daily, street parking or nearby lots, wheelchair access good, patio dining. Interior noise level moderate, some vegetarian/GF items. Phone 310-376-3840.
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