Old clothes in a new restaurant
My wife had gone to work on a casual Friday wearing a T-shirt and jeans, and her first question when she got home was, “I remember that we’re going out tonight – do I have to change clothes?” From the tone in her voice, I could tell that she hoped the answer was no. She seemed surprised when I suggested that instead of the nice T-shirt she was wearing, she might want to change to an older one, and maybe put on the jeans she wore when painting the hallway. After we got to El Goloso, she figured out why I gave that advice. The hole-in-the-mall café’s name means “The Glutton,” and they serve big portions of tasty, messy food. Dressing in older clothes is about practicality rather than style. The specialties here are from Central Mexico rather than the Sonoran style that is most popular in California, with specialties like birria, crispy potato tacos, mulitas, and vampiros. If you haven’t heard of some of those items, you’re not alone – this is the first place in the area where you can get all of them under one roof. That roof is next door to Baran’s 2239 on Pacific Coast Highway in the space that used to be Beirut Mix. It’s a counter serve place with limited seating, so if you’re not…
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