FishBar [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

FishBar executive chef Jessica Jordan and co-owner Zac Rothman. Photo by Alexandra Mandekic/alexandramandekic.com Anyone who has tried living in a house that is in the midst of a major remodeling knows that it’s no fun at all. You put up with having to go around sawhorses to get to the bathroom, the sawdust and plastic sheeting everywhere. But it’s disruptive; it doesn’t feel like your old home, and you don’t even know what your new home is going to be like. Now imagine going through that process while throwing a dinner party every evening. That’s the equivalent of what FishBar inManhattan Beachhas been doing — a complete remodel without missing a day of business. As Baja Sharkeez, the place was a fratboy beach hangout, deliberately and amiably scruffy. As the place morphed into FishBar, the layout stayed similar but touches of class showed up – tapa cloth and woven palm fronds brought a South Pacific feel — the bar no longer looked like hyenas had been chewing on it, and one day the tables weren’t wobbly any more. The food had no such smooth transition – from the first day, it became remarkably better, mostly simple fish dinners at very modest prices. You could walk in with a…

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