Sea Change for the better [Restaurant review]
Sea Change co-owners Michael and Lisa Franks with chef Reilly Quillan. Photo (CivicCouch.com) There was a time when restaurants fit into categories, serving only the French, German, Mexican, Italian, American coffee shop, or whatever else was their specialty. California cuisine blew up that expectation, creating eclectic cuisine as its own category. Suddenly you had to scan the menu carefully and weigh unanticipated flavor combinations in your head. The small plate revolution followed closely, so that not only the flavors but the whole rhythm of the meal was freeform. It was exciting to some people, intimidating to others, and confusing to most until we got the hang of it. The first establishment in the South Bay to wholeheartedly embrace this culinary revolution was Chez Melange, and owners Michael Franks and Robert Bell kept things edgy for decades. After they moved to their current location the front room of the restaurant became Bouzy, a gastropub with a more stable menu, but in the main dining room culinary exploration reigned. A few items were perennials, but all else was as variable as the seasons and the whims of chef Robert Bell. It was therefore a surprise when this most…
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