Take Out Reimagined [restaurant review]
A Southern meal from Baran’s 2239 includes a blackened double-cut pork chop, center, with black-eyed peas, maple crisp, redeye gravy, and pureed sweet potatoes. Photo by JP Cordero The history of commerce is full of companies that leaped boldly into a new business, with unfortunate results. The Enfield rifle company’s excursion into making lawnmowers was successful compared to Colgate’s attempt at selling frozen lasagna, and both were lucrative compared to the Bic pen company’s foray into women’s underwear. These strategies must have made sense to somebody in management, but it’s hard to figure out why. In the last six months many restaurants have been jumping into new businesses, though generally not as odd as those examples. Some opened bodegas and bakeries, and almost all changed their menus. The ones that started as take-out specialists had an obvious edge, as did those serving popular cuisines like pizzas, roast chicken, and tacos. It is therefore surprising that one of the most successful transformations is from an establishment that rarely served a to-go order prior to being forced to shut down their dining room. Baran’s 2239’s was famous for beautifully presented…
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