The steak that would be king
Naming a steakhouse “The Rex” may seem presumptuous, because that title asserts kingship. Another steakhouse might assert that they are the queen of such establishments, or perhaps a prince, but that makes all other steakhouses subjects or vassals. It does make sense because good beef was historically the food of the aristocracy in most of the world, as no peasant in their right mind would kill a cow in its prime of life when it was giving milk, pulling a plow, or doing other useful work. Redondo’s claimant to royalty opened in May on Avenue I in Riviera Village, and has been doing astonishingly well. I know this because it took me three tries to get a reservation, even for a midweek evening, which is a record many places might envy. We finally got one and I was asked whether we’d like to sit inside or out, and we chose outside based on a report that it was quieter. After we got there, I wished we had chosen differently, because the interior boasts a sleek mid-century design and was not particularly loud. The outside patio was pleasant enough, the tables widely spread, and the overhead light softly glowing after dark, but I preferred the clubby old school vibe. The menu isn’t as…
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