Pollo Grill
By Richard Foss Note: written in 2003 I sometimes wonder about restaurants with names that seem to limit them. Earlier this week I visited a place called Just Breakfast, and was surprised to discover that they were open for lunch. They used to be open only for breakfast, the owner explained, but they changed their minds. I suggested changing the name to Just Brunch, but she didn’t seem to think it was as catchy. Also, she could not understand why they hadn’t had many customers during the brief period when they were open for dinner. In the same way that you wouldn’t expect to go to a place called Just Breakfast after noon, you might try a place called Pollo Grill expecting just chicken. In the case of the establishment by that name in Redondo Beach, you would be wrong on several counts. There are more seafood options than chicken dishes and plenty of beef selections, and where chicken does appear it is not only grilled but roasted, fried, sautéed, and in stew. On a recent visit we decided to test the menu to the fullest, ordering a bit of everything they offer. We started with pork tamales, ceviche, and the ubiquitous Peruvian appetizer of potatoes in cheese sauce known as papa…
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