By Richard Foss
Note: written in 2003
I sometimes wonder about restaurants with names that seem to limit them. Earlier this week I visited a place called Just Breakfast, and was surprised to discover that they were open for lunch. They used to be open only for breakfast, the owner explained, but they changed their minds. I suggested changing the name to Just Brunch, but she didn’t seem to think it was as catchy. Also, she could not understand why they hadn’t had many customers during the brief period when they were open for dinner.
In the same way that you wouldn’t expect to go to a place called Just Breakfast after noon, you might try a place called Pollo Grill expecting just chicken. In the case of the establishment by that name in Redondo Beach, you would be wrong on several counts. There are more seafood options than chicken dishes and plenty of beef selections, and where chicken does appear it is not only grilled but roasted, fried, sautéed, and in stew.
On a recent visit we decided to test the menu to the fullest, ordering a bit of everything they offer. We started with pork tamales, ceviche, and the ubiquitous Peruvian appetizer of potatoes in cheese sauce known as papa Huancaina. The pork tamales were spiced quite differently from the Mexican standard and contained hard-boiled egg and slices of green olives, which we found quite surprising. The mesa was ground very finely for a smooth texture, the filling mild but flavorful. It was better than most tamales I’ve had in the South Bay, and if they have them when you visit I’d suggest giving them a try.
The ceviche was milder than some I’ve had, but the better for it – there are some very spicy and acidic versions of this traditional dish, but you could still taste the halibut in this one. I like the balance between spice, citrus, and seafood, and this one got it right. The papas Huancaina were unfortunately not at the same level – on this visit the potatoes had been boiled to the point of mushy. I had the same item on previous visits and the kitchen here seems to have a problem with this, the most typical of Peruvian dishes.
This is especially odd because they execute the rest of their menu very well. I had tried the bistec a lo pobre, a massive dish of grilled rib eye topped with a fried egg, fried plantains, and French fries and served with rice and a salad. Peruvians and Colombians like their steaks wide and cut very thin, which means they can dry to leather if even slightly overcooked. This was still tender and the flavors of the various items had not mixed a sign of real timing skill in the kitchen. Unlike many Peruvian places around town the fries here are soft rather than crisp, but they are good.
We also selected a lenguado a lo macho, deep-fried halibut topped with seafood in a slightly spicy red pepper sauce. The fact that the item was called macho led us to expect some overwhelmingly spicy sauce, but this had nothing like the heat of Thai or even Mexican food. It was a nice flavor along with seafood and there was plenty of seafood here – a big fish filet topped with squid rings, scallops, and mussels, all perfectly cooked.
There was something else we had meant to order, but we couldn’t remember what it was… oh yes, grilled chicken! The pollo parilla was a marinated double chicken breast pounded flat and grilled to the point where it was slightly dry – not overcooked, but deliberately to a slightly chewy texture. There is a definite taste of the grill, a pleasantly smoky charring that makes this reminiscent of a particularly successful backyard barbecue. The difference is that backyard barbecues generally just come with potato salad rather than the good French fries, tangy marinated onions, and salad.
Grilled chicken isn’t the only standout here – the excellent homemade chicken noodle soup is a family favorite and a bargain as well – the huge bowl will almost feed two people for only six dollars. The chicken breast fried over basil spaghetti is further proof, if any was needed, that this place really knows how to cook their bird.
There isn’t very much choice for dessert at the Pollo Grill – flan or the caramel filled cookies called alfajorres, both a bit too sweet for my tastes – but the portions here are so large that I rarely have dessert anyway. Given the low prices I can certainly afford a stop at a bakery or ice cream place afterward, but given the large portions I rarely have the inclination. The meals here are eminently satisfying on their own, and that’s one of the highest compliments I can give any restaurant.
The Pollo Grill is located at 2225 Artesia Boulevard in Redondo Beach. Handicap access OK, free parking in rear. Few choices for vegetarians. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. For take-out or information, call 921-9797.
