Polly’s on the Pier persists
I was deliberately vague in the directions that I gave my brother. “Just drive straight after you go through the entrance to the parking lot on Harbor Drive. I’ll meet you at that restaurant on the pier.”
“What restaurant on the Redondo pier?”
“The only restaurant on the pier.”
“There are lots of restaurants on the pier!”
“Nope, only one.”
I was misleading him for scientific purposes, of course, to show that even lifelong residents of the area forget that Redondo has two piers. You don’t see many tourists on the sport fishing pier just north of the more famous horseshoe pier – it’s a quiet place inhabited mostly by locals, who are there either to fish, book boat rentals and excursions, or to eat at the ramshackle café called Polly’s on the Pier. There is nothing remotely like Polly’s on the horseshoe – it’s a place where locals have unhurried everyday meals, short on décor but long on character.
The sun was out when we arrived for a weekday breakfast, so we braved the cool breeze and sat outside, perusing our menus while we listened to the seals barking by the breakwater and watched seagulls preening on the rail. The cheap lawn furniture was nowhere near as comfortable as the seats inside the dining room, but the ambiance was more than enough compensation.
When we asked for recommendations, our server Cindy cheerfully discussed the merits of the various offerings. She recommended a crab omelet and the machaca, which she mentioned was slow-cooked for hours like pulled pork. The machaca was indeed a hit, the fork-tender beef cooked with green and red chillies to make an intense stew. It was warmly spicy but not at all hot, like an Irish stew with some Mexican overtones. The meat and vegetables were piled over a plain omelet and topped with cheese, a full meal even without the hashed browns on the side. We could have ordered cottage cheese or fruit instead, but the hashed browns here are just too good for that option – they have that perfect crisp crust and buttery interior.
The crab omelet was similarly large but not as much to my taste because it was almost completely unseasoned. If you like the flavor of crab and cheese but nothing else then this will be right up your alley, but in my opinion a dash of Old Bay seasoning, Zatarain’s, or simply some herbs and a sprinkle of pepper would have worked wonders.
On return visits I tried the meatloaf and, at Cindy’s recommendation, a pastrami sandwich. She mentioned that a friend from New York had high praise for the latter, and I had to try it to find out how someone from New York can be induced to like Californian deli fare. Cindy did mention that the pastrami was on the salty side, so I should have water handy.
As before her advice was unerring – what started as a mild tang a few bites into the sandwich became the sensation of eating a salt with some meat flavor in the background. It was a shame because grilled rye and light smear of mustard would have made a fine sandwich otherwise.
The meatloaf sandwich was much more to my taste, despite the fact that the meat was blander than I usually like. When I make meatloaf I add in a hefty dose of herbs, onion, and garlic; this was a much milder mix, with the sweet tomato–based sauce on one side that reminded me of the way my grandmother made it. It was served on grilled sourdough with jack cheese, lettuce, and tomato, thoroughly traditional comfort food. Both sandwiches were served with a vast pile of fries, and made full enough meals to make a siesta seem like a great idea.
Polly’s is a rarity, a South Bay business that has been in existence for over forty years under the same ownership. The prices are very modest, the coffee hot and refilled regularly, and the welcome is warm – all good reasons to seek out the little coffee shop on the short pier.
Polly’s is at 233 North Harbor Drive, near On The Rocks and Ruby’s. Open daily 5 a.m – 2 p.m., no credit cards accepted, no alcohol, wheelchair access OK. Validated parking in marina lot. 310-318-3736.
